Monday, 19 December 2011

Absurd vs Acceptability - Written work


MA Fashion Exploration and Practice




Student Name:    Belgin Vehbi

Module Code:    FTM411

Module Leader:    Sian Mooney

Student number:    U1058651

Date:    14/12/2011














Absurd vs Acceptability


The concept Absurd v Acceptability I believe has evolved from a deep rooted subconscious belief that we, or maybe just I, are some how entrapped and feel we need to disguise what we really feel from the exterior.  There is a part of this belief in our personalities, or perhaps it's just in mine, that feels compelled to keep this trait of our personality suppressed.  This stems from the fear of not fitting in with what society expects or perceives as being normal.  The norm has become absurd to an extent where we are all dictated to by society; what we should be thinking; how we should be behaving and feeling and what we should be wearing in order to conform with what is perceived as being normal.

The way we are expected to appear in our designated or selected cultural groups does not necessarily portray what we're feeling within or where we want to be.  I feel there are unspoken rules of what is acceptable and not acceptable in our everyday lives, which we feel compelled to adhere to in order not to be stigmatised in our designated groups, even though many of us would not admit to it. This stems from the notion that following these unspoken rules will be instrumental in being successful in our chosen paths. This principal is not dissimilar to the children’s game "Simon Says” where the designated person commands an action and all the participants obey in order to stay in the game.

The concept of not revealing any part of the body on one side of the dress is an ironic statement, not doing as we are told or what is expected of us.  It may seem absurd that one half of the dress is a silhouette which emphasises the contours of the female form which makes the principal concept, on the whole, acceptable. The contoured half of the dress helps our brain configure and accept what we are engaging in.  The most simplistic way to analyse the dress would be a comparison to a playground "See Saw" where one person will always be grounded while the other person is elevated, neither position is considered unacceptable or absurd; as they are both consequences of the other one’s position.  What we regard as absurd is only in relation to what we regard as acceptable in each given situation, The absurd is merely a comparison to what we see as being acceptable; i.e. the contoured side of the dress and vice versa. When we realise a space, object or situation is merely a consequence of an action that it is attached to and which we are familiar with, or we find acceptable, we feel assured, as we are not challenged or threatened by the half that is absurd.  The more I see the pieces on the stand the more clarity I have as to why these pieces came about. There is a fine line in our every day lives which we are all conditioned not to cross. However if one does choose to cross the line in a subtle, non aggressive manner the message will not be lost or disregarded.

Each dress demands the same consideration and engagement as one would have with a piece of Art. The viewer needs to consider the dress as a complete piece of work rather than two halves. The question then arises: Are they seeing what is there or their interpretation of it and visualising what they are familiar and comfortable with?  A quote by the photographer Diane Arbus conveys this perfectly," ...a thing is not seen because it is visible, but conversely visible because it is seen...“

The conventional, contoured half of the dress serves as justification or as a pacifier, everything is fine and there is no reason for concern. The dresses do not contain any sinister, sad, entrapped or deprived undertones.  All the pieces in the collection are carefully considered pieces of work which question the terms absurd and acceptable. The beautifully crafted side is carving the path for the viewer to accept the half that has no structure but merely sweeps closely around the body with no provision for the arm. The pieces when worn do not feel unnatural after the initial adjustment of realising one side of the body is not participating in what would be considered the norm. The side where the arm is not exposed would be the side one would expect to refer to as absurd, however by contrast the other side with the hip extension detail could also be referred to as absurd in a different scenario. The evaluation of either side is a mere reflection of what the other side is saying, which is what places one side in the absurd and one side in the acceptable category.

The consideration of what is acceptable and what is absurd is a grey area with no definite answer in this instance, this collection of work is no exception.  The idea of not having a title was a consideration, so the viewer does not have a preconceived title to try and relate to, however I wanted the comparison to be between Absurd and Acceptability.  Like any viewer’s experience of a piece of Art in a gallery there will always be a varied selection of journeys and outcomes.

I have developed the concept a stage further, where the idea of two bodies sharing one space is constructed. This I have called the twin dress, each body stands side by side facing opposite directions.  This further challenges the question of Absurd or Acceptable; both the occupants are comfortable, both have one arm exposed.  This progression seems really natural and it is challenging us at the same time.  Just how far can we go before even beautifully crafted pieces of work are disregarded as they do not conform with the norm; or what the general census regards as the norm?

In preparation for the launch of my structural fashion collection, additional work carried out for the Absurd vs Acceptability concept include garment structures (five pieces in exhibition Absurd vs Acceptability).  Professional photographs of work, designing of website, business cards and postcards and designed and produced 3D scanning and digital printing i.e. a small 3D print of one of my dresses.  Designed and prototyped the packaging for the 3D print.  I also created two new email addresses, one for fashion/ pattern cutting/ teaching and the second for bodies of work to be exhibited i.e. Absurd vs Acceptability.  The exhibit was further enchanced by the projection of a slide show I had created, using photo shoot images with a rotating background to a mellow soundscape. 


Conclusion 

My journey over the last year has been somewhat of a rollercoaster at times, however I have enjoyed every moment as I embraced many new learning opportunities and disciplines. The last two modules were especially stimulating and I have been in my element experimenting and developing new, interesting shapes and fabric structures. I set my own brief and feel I have successfully completed what I set out to achieve; the design and packaging of a complete new brand, ready to launch.

Having carefully considered my subject matter and this concept over the last two modules I can only conclude that there is no differentiation between Absurd or Acceptability.  On reflection, it's all down to what we find aesthetically pleasing, this is what makes the object acceptable, regardless of how unpractical it may be.  By contrast the same set of considerations would not be given if the object was not aesthetically pleasing.  I intend to further develop and elaborate on my concept using a range of fabrics and possibly print. I like the idea of introducing a three piece body of work (Triple Dress) as a finale piece to conclude the whole body of work to date. Following ongoing research into contemporary, suitable gallery space I plan to exhibit the entire body of work (6 pieces) including the proposed Triplet Dress.  I hope to make the work accessible to a wider audience, encourage interaction and challenge more people’s acceptance of the norm. This would be a perfect summary and launch of my new work, following a truly brilliant year.

Friday, 16 December 2011

EXUENT



The private view for our final presentation was a real success. There was a good turn out for a midweek presentation. It was nice to see so many of my friends and colleagues come to see and support the show.

I wold like to say a very special thanks to all of does who helped to make the show a success, Sian for all her support and guidance, Gary for his help in curating  such an amazing space. Keishin, Mira and Kim for the amazing dedication and hard work at time when most needed. Anjan and Hector for helping preparing the space.      
                                         MA FINAL EXHIBITION 





" A THING IS NOT SEEN BECAUSE IT IS VISIBLE, BUT CONVERSELY, VISIBLE BECAUSE IT IS SEEN..."                                                                                                                           DIANE ARBUS






















Final 3D print and packaging








Wednesday, 14 December 2011

The exhibition has had to come down after only a week, it doesn't seem long enough. I felt like my first borns first day at school , I could just stand there and look at the three imaging they were six and what my new three pieces would be like.
I am really pleased with the outcome and can't wait for the next module where the journey continues.
A great twelve weeks! I have learn't more than I could imagine, stranglely not only about my journey, but about human nature and how it can effect people to turn from being quiet nice to really, not very nice at all.
What a weird week , not being totally ingrossed in 'The Exhibition '.
Once again I messed up on my photos but will be uploading images from the exhibition once I have collected from everyone who did'nt mess up on the night.

Monday, 5 December 2011

Week 12

Hair and Make up – Will confirm by the end of the week.

Photographer – This will be a UEL photographer for the private view exhibition.
Models - need to confirm the 3rd model.

Empress Dress - is completed but the hem.

Blog – needs to be finalised


Sketch Book - Adding final touches.

Invites – Sending them via email.
Theoretical body of work – I am struggling to complete this. I am finding it very difficult, as I know what I want to say, however I cannot seem to format the words in my head so they make grammatical sense when I write them down.

Empathy Dress – I need a machinist that can complete it, in order for me to have a fitting ASAP.


Sound Scape - this was given to dominic to create a piece that will encompass all of our work.


Exhibition Space - We all spent 2 hours in the space trying to allocate the best possible space for each of those exhibiting. One tends to take it for granted, an interesting exhibition would have had a lot of thought and time invested in the planning. 

The Structures - The dresses have proven to be successful in the fabric, I thought it may be too heavy but it has worked really well.

The Plinths - are amazing, I think I will end up painting them grey, as white might look a little harsh against the grey flooring.

Accessories - All the accessories have been ordered

Business cards and Post cards have arrived





 







The Box for my 3D print is looking really nice. It really makes a difference if you have nice packaging.


Conclusion
I have had a really amazing journey with loads of highs and lows. Days when I questioned what I was doing here, did I deserve to be here, as I was struggling with the areas that encompassed IT. Then the rest of the time, taking a step back looking at where I was (in my life) and thinking yes, I am so happy to be here, in this place, space at this time. I should have done this a long time ago. The spinning wheels of life will continue whether you're on or off the wheel. I feel brave and proud of myself, to have braved going back to being a student, and in my place of work.
The pressure to do well is so high. I feel like every step of my journey has been in a fish bowl. Everyone has been so nice and so supportive throughout. I feel at times, I have been really hard on myself.

Overall it has been an incredible journey. I would most definitely recommend doing an MA to anyone. I feel I have grown as an individual and as an artist and a designer. The mission has been forfeited. I graduated as a designer 25 years ago, and I am now graduating as an artist, utilising my design/pattern cutting skills to create fashion - cross over to sculpture/Art.
 

Monday, 28 November 2011

Week 11

The Structures are now complete. The Empathy dress has had so many amendments ade to the one dress. The 2nd structure which will be in white jersey has moments when it seems to long for a print, and then it draws back on its purity.
(3/4 pics of toiles)

Models - The sourcing of models is quite a challenge as they seem to be quite temperamental and not very punctual. I am seeing a total of 6 in order to find 3. I subscribed up to 2 models at Model Mayhem, which is a site for models and photographers, so it would make sourcing models easier.

Hair, Make-up, Photograph - I have booked a photographer for the private view (Paola). The photographer for my last module failed to turn up on the day. As a result, I did not get my real life images of the day. I am still awaiting a reply from AOFM (Academy of Make-up) to see how many hair stylists and make up artists they will send.

Sample Machinist - The original lady that was due to come in this Monday has now said she will not be able to. Plan B: I will now have to work around 2 other machinists. My greatest fear is the time each piece takes, is so under estimated.

Plinths - are awaiting completion. They still need to be painted, need to decide on top colour.

Business cards and postcards- should be here by the end of the week.

Accessories -  I will only be able to accessorize, once the models have been confirmed.

Fabrics arrived

Fabrics:

My fabric arrived from Italy this week. I am thrilled with the handle and feel of them all. The Italian fabric fair is so amazing for unique, exciting, luxury fabric.

Monday, 21 November 2011

Week 10

Presentation – I need to practice my presentation skills and prepare a small speech to present my work. I believe I have worked really hard and put the hours in, however, when it comes to doing a 10 min presentation, I am petrified, my nerves always get the better of me.

Sample Machinist – The original lady that was due to come in this Monday, has now said she will not be able to. Plan B I will now have to work around 2 other machinists. My greatest fear is, the time each piece takes is so underestimated.

The 3D Printing – is looking amazing – I think anyway. I finally found a product design student to produce the box for the 3D Print, so the presentation will be in a box.

Sign and quote for the wall – have sourced a sign maker. I have sourced a company that will print my signs for the exhibition. I have gone for the black and red text as on my post cards and business cards.  

Thursday, 17 November 2011

Photoshoot

  



























Photoshoot:
The photoshoot went really well. I am glad I used three different models for each of the dresses as this made each one shine in their own write. Each dress has its own personalitywhen you see them on a model. There were slight hick ups with the stylist, however as a collective team we were able to resolve?.....  The photos make my point of 'Absurd Acceptability', the familiar with the absurd. The ongoing research of my shapes are intriguing. The more you seem to resolve, the more there is to resolve. The amount of work involved in esembling the foundation in a coherant many is amazing. I feel the documentation of each piece should be edited in a way the journey is shared with the viewer. I am looking at the possibility of making some kind of slide show/ film to present with the work. I have a meeting with Dominic (final cut pro tutor) next week to discuss what I could possibly do to display the journey in an interesting manner.
Twin dress:
The shape is evolving, each stage sets a new set of challenges. The relationship of how each section works in relation of the body. The fabric I have selected seems slightly heavier than what I anticipated seciy as a whole piece.
The Jersey/Comfort dress:
The shape is resolved. I am still on my mission to locate the perfect cream/ivory jersey in the correct weight.
Exhibition Space:
We had our first meeting in the gallery space with the space curator. The intor made the whole event seem real, as opposal to looking at our work in our space. We will be graduating shortyly and our work will be on display for the world to view. The next challenge is to work out a senario where all of us (MA Group) are happy with the use of space.  I have a clear vision in my head of what I want to portray to the viewer. The launch of Blegin the clothes/installation designer.

Monday, 14 November 2011

Week 9

The 3D scanning is a really lengthy process. The data is fed in to the system, then a figure is imported from the programme that is then superimposed on to the original scanned image. The two are then integrated in to one.

The software at L.C.F only has 2 very basic hairstyles and 3 pairs of very basic shoes.
I decided to omit the shoes and the hair as it would take the body of work in to a completely different realm, i.e. a doll with no hair.

I have decided to sculpt in to the back of her head to create a point of intrigue.

Learning outcome – I truly believe at this point, I have rediscovered myself as an artist and designer. This is where I want to be. I am able to approach and execute my ideas in with much more adventure and clarity. I feel like I am at the peak of my learning curve. The different disciplines covered in the previous modules, have given me the confidence and courage to experiment and explore in areas I would not have dreamed of otherwise. I.e. anything that involves IT, 3D scanning, setting up my own website from a blank page, designing and creating a range of fabric based structures that are solely to express, no commerce considerations.

Commerce has always been the core consideration of what one can and can’t do. However I feel this has allowed me the freedom to be self indulgent and experimental for the duration of the course and beyond.

Dyslexia Report – I was given a 22 page report by the Dyslexia psychologist, which confirmed that I am dyslexic. All the areas where I suffer and feel tormented in my life i.e. academic writing have been due to the dyslexia.
This is why I struggle to the extent I do. I truly feel tormented at the thought of not being able to achieve, express and convey in writing my thoughts and feelings.
I am suddenly at the same time relieved to know the reason behind why I struggle in writing, reading, retaining information, short-term memory, editing information, regrouping information in order of sequence.

Monday, 7 November 2011

Week 8

The original sample machinist I worked with last time comes back, hoping she would be able to spare the time. The two other options factored into my sample machining schedule are both part time staff at UEL. They both have full schedules. The task to find someone is made more difficult by the premise that I believe it is far more productive if they are on the premises with me present. I have experienced the silliest of mistakes, when I'm in the next room, where people's judgement or opinions have not been in sync with mine. That is not being obnoxious, but its the nature of the work.



Team Building - I have a UEL graduate and a 2nd Year BA UEL student. Neither are full time, so the work is not coming through as quick as I would like due to lack of time they are able to offer. I decided to post an add on Fashion Creativity 2011 Group. I had about 6 responses. This I thought would resolve the problem. This proves the theory that a good person is worth their weight in gold.
Consistency, commitment and hard work are merely ingredients in order to achieve success and productivity; one has to have time input.

Quotes - The addition of a quote is like the polishing of a gem. I know from my last presentation a quote is a nice point of engagement for the viewer; it makes you stop and think. I have found what I believe to be the perfect quote by Dianne Arbus.

'...a thing is not seen because it is visible, but conversely, visible because it is seen...'
(From her copy of The works of Plato)


Monday, 31 October 2011

Week 7

Structure Development - The structures are still in their development stage. It seems unbelievable the amount of work involved in making something look so pure and simple. The inner layers and structures needed just as much work, although they give an impression of not being worked on.
The empathy (Twin Dress) is a collision or coming together of two individual shapes. The Venus De Milo structure is by comparison a subdued element in the plot.

Presentation platforms - In my last presentation, I had all 3 models standing on a very small plinth. This was a mere gesture to give the viewer a focus or starting point.
What is the purpose of the plinth? The aim is to have 6 models, 3 from the previous and 3 for this module, standing on the plinths like structures or installations. It will not be possible to have them all standing together so I think maybe  have individual plinths, platforms for each structure and possibly a bit higher. I will need to look in to perhaps making these myself in UEL with assistance.

3D Scanning - I had Venus De Milo dress scanned in on a live model. It was really interesting. The scanner could not compete the scan as it needs to read all the limbs. Ironically, we had to improvise by adding a sock to where her right arm would be to complete the scan successfully. The whole process was over in about 10 minutes.
The scanner at L.C.F only recognizes white, so the decision of which dress I would scan was made for me.. Everything one does when venturing in to new fields is a learning curve. I arranged for the model to have her hair 'put up' by a hair stylist; as in the presentation, only to find out the scanner does not read fine molecules such as hair.




Tendonitis/Tennis Elbow - Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI). A condition I contracted last year. The symptoms require me not to use my right arm. The tension and pain at time is unbearable. A comparison would be like having a really fast car rearing to go with one flat tyre. It is so frustrating. Another one of those things, where mind needs to rule over matter.